Keratin is a type of tough fibrous protein found in epithelial cells and helps form tissues of hair, nails, and the outer layer of the skin with its tight strands and intertwined structures. . They are also found on cells in the linings of organs, glands, and other parts of the body.
A keratin treatment is a chemical process that smooths and shines frizzy hair. It’s like a topcoat for hair. Results can last up to anywhere from weeks up to six months and there are many different versions of the treatment that go by different names and a hairstylist can customize a blend of formulas to suit each person's needs. Keratin treatments are designed to dive into the hair follicle and inject porous areas with keratin, which is an essential hair protein, giving hair a healthier appearance.
Hair gets frizzy when the outermost layer of the hair, the cuticle, lifts and allows for moisture and other environmental factors to seep in and cause the hair shaft to swell and become thick and frizzy. By permeating the hair with a keratin treatment, the cuticle is smoothed down and sealed up, preventing frizz and breakage. The body naturally makes the protein keratin and the keratin used in the treatments can be derived from wool, feathers, or horn. Certain shampoos and conditioners contain keratin as well. Keratin smooths cells that overlap to form hair strands, which makes the hair more manageable and less frizzy. Keratin can also reduce the look of split ends by temporarily bonding the hair back together. Some people also estimate that their hair drying time is cut by more than half the usual, allowing the hair to also become healthier and stronger since it can be air dried more often, saving it from heat damage. Keratin can also strengthen and fortify hair so it doesn’t break off so easily, allowing the hair to seem to grow faster because the ends aren’t breaking off.
Formaldehyde is used in some keratin treatments and is dangerous if inhaled. The CDC defines it as a colorless, strong-smelling gas that is usually used to make building materials, household products like glue and fiberboard, and used as a preservative when dissolved in water. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen, but some treatments don't contain it. It’s actually what makes the hair look straighter. Some companies will try to hide the fact that their keratin product contains the chemical. Each treatment can also range anywhere from $300-$800, plus tip and there are less expensive at-home options available, but the results will not last as long. Depending on the texture and density of a person's hair, it can take anywhere from two to four hours to get a treatment done. The hair has to be washed, then apply keratin treatment onto the wet hair, then let it sit for 30 minutes, but some may blow dry hair first and then apply the treatment. Lastly, the treatment is heat activated and the stylist will flat iron the hair in small sections to seal it in. There is also a rule after to keep the hair away from water at least 2-3 days after. Also, it’s recommended to use sodium chloride-free hair products and to wrap the hair in silk or satin scarf or a pillowcase to keep moisture locked in the hair as the treatment can cause the hair to dry out faster.
References:
Gallagher, G. (2020, April 1). Keratin hair treatment pros and cons. Healthline. Retrieved March 15, 2022, from https://www.healthline.com/health/keratin-treatment-pros-and-cons#pros
Weatherford, A., & Hou, K. (2021, October 7). Read this before you get a keratin treatment. The Cut. Retrieved March 15, 2022, from https://www.thecut.com/2021/10/everything-to-know-about-keratin-treatments.html
Staff, H. B. (2022, January 20). Everything you need to know about keratin hair treatments. Harper's BAZAAR. Retrieved March 15, 2022, from https://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/hair/advice/a1266/how-keratin-damages-hair/
Keratin-based skin treatments utilize the structural protein keratin, which is a key component of the epidermis, hair, and nails, to support skin barrier repair, hydration, and rejuvenation. These products are commonly found in formulations aimed at managing dry skin, wound healing, aging related skin changes, and even post procedural skin recovery. Keratin applied topically is typically derived from human hair, wool, or plant based recombinant sources, and is formulated into creams, serums, or hydrogel matrices.
Keratin functions by forming a protective, occlusive layer that enhances skin barrier integrity, reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and promotes tissue regeneration. Some studies suggest that keratin peptides may also play a role in cellular signaling, modulating keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, especially under stress or damaged conditions such as burns, abrasions, or after dermatologic procedures like microneedling or chemical peels.
Hydrolyzed keratin, the form most commonly used in topical formulations, contains smaller protein fragments that can penetrate the stratum corneum more effectively. These peptides are sometimes combined with other actives such as hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, or ceramides to enhance hydration and anti-aging effects. In wound care, keratin based dressings or gels may provide scaffolding to promote re-epithelialization and maintain a moist healing environment.
Although generally well tolerated, keratin-based products can occasionally cause mild irritation or allergic contact dermatitis, especially in individuals sensitive to protein derived ingredients. As with other topical agents, the safety and efficacy of keratin treatments may vary depending on formulation quality, peptide concentration, and whether the product is applied to intact or compromised skin.
Pharmacists may encounter keratin containing skin products in both cosmetic and medical grade settings, particularly in moisturizers, anti-aging treatments, scar therapies, and wound management supplies. While these products are generally available over the counter, pharmacists should evaluate the clinical evidence supporting product claims, identify potential allergens, and guide patients on realistic expectations for use. In wound care contexts, pharmacists can also support selection of appropriate adjunctive therapies, evaluate compatibility with antibiotics or occlusive dressings, and monitor for signs of infection or delayed healing.
As interest grows in bioactive peptides and barrier supportive treatments, keratin is gaining traction as a multifunctional ingredient in dermatologic care. Pharmacists are uniquely positioned to assess product efficacy, ensure safe use, and educate patients on integrating these treatments into broader skin care or wound care regimens.
References:
Lim J, Woodruff MA. Keratin-based biomaterials for biomedical applications. Bioactive Materials. 2021;6(8):2823–2835. doi:10.1016/j.bioactmat.2021.02.009
Hill P, Brantley H, Van Dyke M. Some properties of keratin biomaterials: kerateines. Biomaterials. 2010;31(4):585–593. doi:10.1016/j.biomaterials.2009.09.076
Shavandi A, Bekhit AEDA, Ali MA, Sun Z. Keratin: dissolution, extraction and biomedical application. Biomater Sci. 2017;5(9):1699–1735. doi:10.1039/C7BM00262G
Rouse JG, Van Dyke ME. A review of keratin-based biomaterials for wound healing and tissue engineering. J Biomater Sci Polym Ed. 2010;21(6-7):837–852. doi:10.1163/156856210X492782
Choudhury D, Das A, Kumar A. Recent advances in hydrogel-based drug delivery systems for skin and wound care. Acta Biomater. 2022;138:1–22. doi:10.1016/j.actbio.2021.10.007