Keratin is a type of tough fibrous protein found in epithelial cells and helps form tissues of hair, nails, and the outer layer of the skin with its tight strands and intertwined structures. . They are also found on cells in the linings of organs, glands, and other parts of the body.
A keratin treatment is a chemical process that smooths and shines frizzy hair. It’s like a topcoat for hair. Results can last up to anywhere from weeks up to six months and there are many different versions of the treatment that go by different names and a hairstylist can customize a blend of formulas to suit each person's needs. Keratin treatments are designed to dive into the hair follicle and inject porous areas with keratin, which is an essential hair protein, giving hair a healthier appearance.
Hair gets frizzy when the outermost layer of the hair, the cuticle, lifts and allows for moisture and other environmental factors to seep in and cause the hair shaft to swell and become thick and frizzy. By permeating the hair with a keratin treatment, the cuticle is smoothed down and sealed up, preventing frizz and breakage. The body naturally makes the protein keratin and the keratin used in the treatments can be derived from wool, feathers, or horn. Certain shampoos and conditioners contain keratin as well. Keratin smooths cells that overlap to form hair strands, which makes the hair more manageable and less frizzy. Keratin can also reduce the look of split ends by temporarily bonding the hair back together. Some people also estimate that their hair drying time is cut by more than half the usual, allowing the hair to also become healthier and stronger since it can be air dried more often, saving it from heat damage. Keratin can also strengthen and fortify hair so it doesn’t break off so easily, allowing the hair to seem to grow faster because the ends aren’t breaking off.
Formaldehyde is used in some keratin treatments and is dangerous if inhaled. The CDC defines it as a colorless, strong-smelling gas that is usually used to make building materials, household products like glue and fiberboard, and used as a preservative when dissolved in water. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen, but some treatments don't contain it. It’s actually what makes the hair look straighter. Some companies will try to hide the fact that their keratin product contains the chemical. Each treatment can also range anywhere from $300-$800, plus tip and there are less expensive at-home options available, but the results will not last as long. Depending on the texture and density of a person's hair, it can take anywhere from two to four hours to get a treatment done. The hair has to be washed, then apply keratin treatment onto the wet hair, then let it sit for 30 minutes, but some may blow dry hair first and then apply the treatment. Lastly, the treatment is heat activated and the stylist will flat iron the hair in small sections to seal it in. There is also a rule after to keep the hair away from water at least 2-3 days after. Also, it’s recommended to use sodium chloride-free hair products and to wrap the hair in silk or satin scarf or a pillowcase to keep moisture locked in the hair as the treatment can cause the hair to dry out faster.
References:
Gallagher, G. (2020, April 1). Keratin hair treatment pros and cons. Healthline. Retrieved March 15, 2022, from https://www.healthline.com/health/keratin-treatment-pros-and-cons#pros
Weatherford, A., & Hou, K. (2021, October 7). Read this before you get a keratin treatment. The Cut. Retrieved March 15, 2022, from https://www.thecut.com/2021/10/everything-to-know-about-keratin-treatments.html
Staff, H. B. (2022, January 20). Everything you need to know about keratin hair treatments. Harper's BAZAAR. Retrieved March 15, 2022, from https://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/hair/advice/a1266/how-keratin-damages-hair/
Keratin is a protein essential for the formation of hair, nails and the epidermis (the outermost layer of the skin) and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin integrity, promoting wound healing, and ensuring the health of nails and hair. Keratin is found in 54 different kinds in our bodies, with two primary types:
Type I: 28 out of the total 54 keratins are found as type I keratin. Among these 28, 17 are epithelial keratins responsible for skin cell formation, while the remaining 11 are specific to the integrity of our hair. In general, type I keratins are primarily comprised of acidic, lightweight proteins.
Type II: The remaining 26 types of keratin belong to type II. Among these 26, 20 are involved in the formation of skin cells, whereas the remaining 6 are specific to our hair. These types of keratin are composed of more heavy-weight proteins with a basic/neutral nature. Being that they are more neutral than type I keratin, their pH complements that of type I and regulates cellular activity.
In addition to there being two different types of keratin, there are also two different forms in which keratin is found:
Alpha-keratin: Present in the hair, skin, horns and nails of mammals. Both type I and type II keratins fall into this form.
Beta-keratin: Found in the feathers, claws, beaks and scales of birds and reptiles. We do not possess any beta-keratin in our bodies.
As we grow older, keratin levels decline in our bodies due to environmental factors such as UV exposure, chemicals and heat, causing keratin degradation and structure alteration. With the changes in its shape and structure, keratin’s functionality is also poorly affected. The degradation and structural alteration of keratin leads to reduced strength, elasticity, and shine in our hair. A popular resolution to this issue is receiving keratin hair treatments. Keratin treatments are a chemical process whereby the most superficial layer of the hair shaft is smoothed. While keratin treatments can be applied on any hair type, those with longer or curly/frizzy hair are more prone to seeking these treatments.
The process of a keratin treatment may vary across different salons, however there are general steps followed by most places. Typically, a hairstylist will begin by washing your hair twice with a clarifying shampoo. After washing your hair, the hairstylist will begin applying the keratin solution to your damp hair and ensure even distribution by combing it throughout the hair. The duration of the keratin treatment depends on factors such as hair volume and texture, however it usually ranges from two to four hours. Once the keratin treatment has been left on your hair for the necessary amount of time, the hair is dried and flat ironed to seal the solution into your hair. To clarify, the keratin solution will NOT be rinsed out of your hair but will instead be sealed using heat to form a coating on your hair and smooth it. Keratin treatments last for up to six months, depending on how often you wash your hair. After your keratin treatment, it is recommended to wait a few days before you shampoo your hair again and try to cut down on the number of times you wash your hair per week. A common concern about this treatment is that many keratin treatments used on our hair contain the chemical formaldehyde, which is a known carcinogen. The FDA cautions its users that the formaldehyde found in keratin treatments can cause adverse reactions such as eye irritation, headaches, dizziness, coughing, wheezing, chest pain, vomiting and rash. So, it is always important to consult your healthcare provider prior to initiation of keratin treatments to discuss the risks vs the benefits.
Resources:
Keratin: Protein, structure, benefits, uses & risks. Cleveland Clinic. Accessed April 19, 2024. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/body/23204-keratin.
What you need to know about keratin treatments. Cleveland Clinic. March 19, 2024. Accessed April 19, 2024. https://health.clevelandclinic.org/keratin-treatments.
Iftikhar N. Keratin treatment side effects: Formaldehyde risk, alternatives, more. Healthline. May 15, 2023. Accessed April 19, 2024. https://www.healthline.com/health/what-are-the-side-effects-of-a-keratin-treatment.