Keratin is a type of tough fibrous protein found in epithelial cells and helps form tissues of hair, nails, and the outer layer of the skin with its tight strands and intertwined structures. . They are also found on cells in the linings of organs, glands, and other parts of the body.
A keratin treatment is a chemical process that smooths and shines frizzy hair. It’s like a topcoat for hair. Results can last up to anywhere from weeks up to six months and there are many different versions of the treatment that go by different names and a hairstylist can customize a blend of formulas to suit each person's needs. Keratin treatments are designed to dive into the hair follicle and inject porous areas with keratin, which is an essential hair protein, giving hair a healthier appearance.
Hair gets frizzy when the outermost layer of the hair, the cuticle, lifts and allows for moisture and other environmental factors to seep in and cause the hair shaft to swell and become thick and frizzy. By permeating the hair with a keratin treatment, the cuticle is smoothed down and sealed up, preventing frizz and breakage. The body naturally makes the protein keratin and the keratin used in the treatments can be derived from wool, feathers, or horn. Certain shampoos and conditioners contain keratin as well. Keratin smooths cells that overlap to form hair strands, which makes the hair more manageable and less frizzy. Keratin can also reduce the look of split ends by temporarily bonding the hair back together. Some people also estimate that their hair drying time is cut by more than half the usual, allowing the hair to also become healthier and stronger since it can be air dried more often, saving it from heat damage. Keratin can also strengthen and fortify hair so it doesn’t break off so easily, allowing the hair to seem to grow faster because the ends aren’t breaking off.
Formaldehyde is used in some keratin treatments and is dangerous if inhaled. The CDC defines it as a colorless, strong-smelling gas that is usually used to make building materials, household products like glue and fiberboard, and used as a preservative when dissolved in water. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen, but some treatments don't contain it. It’s actually what makes the hair look straighter. Some companies will try to hide the fact that their keratin product contains the chemical. Each treatment can also range anywhere from $300-$800, plus tip and there are less expensive at-home options available, but the results will not last as long. Depending on the texture and density of a person's hair, it can take anywhere from two to four hours to get a treatment done. The hair has to be washed, then apply keratin treatment onto the wet hair, then let it sit for 30 minutes, but some may blow dry hair first and then apply the treatment. Lastly, the treatment is heat activated and the stylist will flat iron the hair in small sections to seal it in. There is also a rule after to keep the hair away from water at least 2-3 days after. Also, it’s recommended to use sodium chloride-free hair products and to wrap the hair in silk or satin scarf or a pillowcase to keep moisture locked in the hair as the treatment can cause the hair to dry out faster.
References:
Gallagher, G. (2020, April 1). Keratin hair treatment pros and cons. Healthline. Retrieved March 15, 2022, from https://www.healthline.com/health/keratin-treatment-pros-and-cons#pros
Weatherford, A., & Hou, K. (2021, October 7). Read this before you get a keratin treatment. The Cut. Retrieved March 15, 2022, from https://www.thecut.com/2021/10/everything-to-know-about-keratin-treatments.html
Staff, H. B. (2022, January 20). Everything you need to know about keratin hair treatments. Harper's BAZAAR. Retrieved March 15, 2022, from https://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/hair/advice/a1266/how-keratin-damages-hair/
Thank you for discussing the significance of keratin, type 1 and type 2, as well the alpha and beta.
Keratin is a protein essential for the formation of hair, nails and the epidermis (the outermost layer of the skin) and plays a crucial role in maintaining skin integrity, promoting wound healing, and ensuring the health of nails and hair. Keratin is found in 54 different kinds in our bodies, with two primary types:
Type I: 28 out of the total 54 keratins are found as type I keratin. Among these 28, 17 are epithelial keratins responsible for skin cell formation, while the remaining 11 are specific to the integrity of our hair. In general, type I keratins are primarily comprised of acidic, lightweight proteins.
Type II: The remaining 26 types of keratin belong to type II. Among these 26, 20 are involved in the formation of skin cells, whereas the remaining 6 are specific to our hair. These types of keratin are composed of more heavy-weight proteins with a basic/neutral nature. Being that they are more neutral than type I keratin, their pH complements that of type I and regulates cellular activity.
In addition to there being two different types of keratin, there are also two different forms in which keratin is found:
Alpha-keratin: Present in the hair, skin, horns and nails of mammals. Both type I and type II keratins fall into this form.
Beta-keratin: Found in the feathers, claws, beaks and scales of birds and reptiles. We do not possess any beta-keratin in our bodies.
As we grow older, keratin levels decline in our bodies due to environmental factors such as UV exposure, chemicals and heat, causing keratin degradation and structure alteration. With the changes in its shape and structure, keratin’s functionality is also poorly affected. The degradation and structural alteration of keratin leads to reduced strength, elasticity, and shine in our hair. A popular resolution to this issue is receiving keratin hair treatments. Keratin treatments are a chemical process whereby the most superficial layer of the hair shaft is smoothed. While keratin treatments can be applied on any hair type, those with longer or curly/frizzy hair are more prone to seeking these treatments.
The process of a keratin treatment may vary across different salons, however there are general steps followed by most places. Typically, a hairstylist will begin by washing your hair twice with a clarifying shampoo. After washing your hair, the hairstylist will begin applying the keratin solution to your damp hair and ensure even distribution by combing it throughout the hair. The duration of the keratin treatment depends on factors such as hair volume and texture, however it usually ranges from two to four hours. Once the keratin treatment has been left on your hair for the necessary amount of time, the hair is dried and flat ironed to seal the solution into your hair. To clarify, the keratin solution will NOT be rinsed out of your hair but will instead be sealed using heat to form a coating on your hair and smooth it. Keratin treatments last for up to six months, depending on how often you wash your hair. After your keratin treatment, it is recommended to wait a few days before you shampoo your hair again and try to cut down on the number of times you wash your hair per week. A common concern about this treatment is that many keratin treatments used on our hair contain the chemical formaldehyde, which is a known carcinogen. The FDA cautions its users that the formaldehyde found in keratin treatments can cause adverse reactions such as eye irritation, headaches, dizziness, coughing, wheezing, chest pain, vomiting and rash. So, it is always important to consult your healthcare provider prior to initiation of keratin treatments to discuss the risks vs the benefits.
Resources:
Keratin: Protein, structure, benefits, uses & risks. Cleveland Clinic. Accessed April 19, 2024. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/body/23204-keratin.
What you need to know about keratin treatments. Cleveland Clinic. March 19, 2024. Accessed April 19, 2024. https://health.clevelandclinic.org/keratin-treatments.
Iftikhar N. Keratin treatment side effects: Formaldehyde risk, alternatives, more. Healthline. May 15, 2023. Accessed April 19, 2024. https://www.healthline.com/health/what-are-the-side-effects-of-a-keratin-treatment.
Keratin treatments have become a popular hair care option for those looking to achieve smoother, more manageable hair. These treatments typically involve the application of a keratin-based solution to the hair, which is then sealed in using heat, such as a flat iron. The process aims to strengthen the hair, reduce frizz, and make it more resistant to damage from heat styling and environmental factors. Keratin is a protein that is naturally found in hair, skin, and nails. It plays a key role in the structure and strength of hair, helping to keep it strong and healthy. However, factors such as heat styling, chemical treatments, and environmental damage can all contribute to the breakdown of keratin in the hair, leading to dryness, frizz, and damage.
Keratin treatments work by replenishing the keratin in the hair, helping to restore its strength and vitality. The process typically involves several steps. First, the hair is washed with a clarifying shampoo to remove any buildup and open the hair cuticles. Next, the keratin solution is applied to the hair, ensuring that it is evenly distributed. The hair is then dried and flat ironed to seal in the keratin, creating a smooth, glossy finish.
One of the key benefits of keratin treatments is their ability to reduce frizz and make hair more manageable. By replenishing the keratin in the hair, these treatments can help to smooth the hair cuticle, reducing the roughness that can lead to frizz. This can make it easier to style the hair and can also help to protect it from damage from heat styling and environmental factors.
While keratin treatments can provide temporary benefits, there are some potential drawbacks to consider. One of the main concerns with these treatments is the use of formaldehyde, a chemical that is sometimes used to help seal in the keratin. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen and can cause irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory system. As a result, many keratin treatments now use formaldehyde-free formulas, which are safer but may not be as effective.
Keratin treatments can be a beneficial option for those looking to improve the condition of their hair. By replenishing the keratin in the hair, these treatments can help to reduce frizz, improve manageability, and protect against damage. However, it is important to be aware of the potential side effects of these treatments, including the use of formaldehyde.
References:
https://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/hair/advice/a1266/how-keratin-damages-hair/
Keratin treatment
Yu Feng Lin & Fawziya Twam
Keratin, a basic building block of the complex morphological structure of hair and feathers, has been commonly used in hair improvement cosmetics. Brazilian keratin treatments are widely used by people, mainly women, around the world to straighten and improve the appearance of their hair. Marketers claim that these treatments make curly hair more manageable, reduce frizz, enhance color and shine, and promote healthier-looking hair. However, many of these products contain formaldehyde or its derivatives, which are potentially harmful, despite being marketed as safe.
A typical keratin treatment involves several key steps to achieve smoother and more manageable hair. The process begins with preparation, where the hair is thoroughly cleansed using a clarifying shampoo. This step serves to remove any product buildup and open up the hair cuticles in readiness for the treatment. Following preparation, the application of the keratin treatment takes place. This involves the meticulous application of a keratin-rich solution to the hair, typically section by section. Notably, these solutions often contain formaldehyde or formaldehyde-releasing chemicals, which play a crucial role in bonding the keratin to the hair and contributing to the desired smoothing effect.
After application, the treated hair enters the processing phase. During this time, the hair is left to absorb the keratin solution for a specific duration, commonly ranging from 20 to 30 minutes. This step allows the hair to fully benefit from the treatment. Heat activation follows the processing phase, where a hairstylist employs a flat iron. The application of heat from the iron serves to seal the keratin into the hair shaft effectively. This sealing process locks in the treatment, resulting in hair that is smoother and more manageable.
Once the treatment is heat-sealed, the hair undergoes rinsing and sometimes styling. It is essential to note that immediate washing of the hair is typically discouraged, and the stylist specifies a waiting period, often 48 to 72 hours. This waiting period is crucial to allow the treatment to set fully, maximizing the results. The effects of a keratin treatment can be long-lasting, lasting several weeks to a few months, depending on various factors such as hair type, maintenance practices, and the specific product used. Over time, the treatment gradually fades, and the hair gradually reverts to its natural state.
The objective of one study explored the potential of keratin-based particles for protecting and improving the mechanical properties and thermal stability of hair. The methods used in the study involved creating keratin-based particles through high-pressure homogenization using keratin and silk fibroin. These particles were assessed for size, charge, and safety for human skin keratinocytes. The study applied eight keratin-based formulations to both virgin and overbleached Asian hair to evaluate their impact on hair's mechanical properties and thermal performance using techniques like differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).
The results showed that the keratin-based particles effectively improved the mechanical properties of both virgin and overbleached hair. For instance, virgin hair treated with a specific formulation exhibited a 40% improvement in mechanical properties. The treatment also increased keratin α-helix denaturation enthalpy and surface smoothness for both hair types. The study demonstrated that these particles were stable over time and safe when tested on human keratinocytes.
Keratin-based particles have the potential to be incorporated into the development of new and effective cosmetic formulations for hair care, with the ability to enhance hair's mechanical properties and thermal stability. Although widely used, there have been virtually no reports of adverse side effects. Unfortunately, many of the products that are applied by salon professionals contain formaldehyde or its derivatives and are being marketed as safe.
In another study, researchers aimed to produce and utilize human hair keratin K31, a significant component of human hair, to improve damaged hair. Commercially used keratins are usually derived from wool or chicken feathers, which have differences from human hair keratin. Keratin K31 is a major component of hair cortex which contributes to the strength of the hair shaft and is a crucial protein for maintaining hair tensile strength. The study successfully expressed the K31 gene in E. coli, yielding a protein that accounted for around 35% of the total cell proteins but was initially in an insoluble form. However, they managed to refold and purify the K31 protein using an anion-exchange column.
Analysis confirmed that the refolded K31 protein was structurally correct, matching the characteristics of human K31 keratin. When this protein was applied to chemically damaged hair, it increased the hair diameter by up to 49% and improved the mechanical strength of bleached hair by nearly 2 times after a single treatment. Additionally, K31 effectively straightened curly hair with just one-hour treatment, resulting in significant enhancements in hair smoothness, diameter, and mechanical strength for damaged hair. These findings show the potential of K31 in the development of hair care and styling products.
As mentioned previously, concerns persist regarding the safety of commercial keratin treatments due to the high concentrations of formaldehyde they often contain. The exact level of formaldehyde deemed safe for sensitive individuals remains uncertain, and reports suggest that some products exceed tolerable limits. Consequently, users may experience severe allergic contact dermatitis, primarily triggered by formaldehyde and its releasers. One case report highlights a 37-year-old female patient who suffered extensive facial edema and acute scalp inflammation, a day after receiving a BKT to straighten her hair. Such adverse reactions underscore the potential risks associated with these hair straightening products.
In response to these concerns, a study sought to investigate the clinical characteristics and dermatoscopic findings in patients experiencing psoriasiform skin reactions due to BKT. Conducted from October 2017 to June 2020, this cross-sectional research aimed to shed light on the nature and prevalence of these adverse effects. The study identified 43 patients, primarily females, with an average age of 35 years, who had developed skin reactions following BKT use. On average, patients had undergone two BKT sessions, with the time elapsed before the skin reaction appearing linked to the number of treatments. Dermatoscopic observations revealed common findings, such as perifollicular scales, red patches, and peripilar desquamation resembling the outer skin layer of an onion bulb.
This research indicates that hair straightening products, including BKT, may pose underdiagnosed risks, particularly in terms of psoriasiform skin reactions. It underscores the importance of considering the background of BKT when assessing patients with clinical and dermatoscopic signs indicative of such cutaneous reactions, ultimately emphasizing the need for increased awareness and vigilance in the use of these treatments.
References:
Basit A, Asghar F, Sadaf S, Akhtar MW. Health improvement of human hair and their reshaping using recombinant keratin K31. Biotechnol Rep (Amst). 2018;20:e00288. Published 2018 Oct 24. doi:10.1016/j.btre.2018.e00288
Celik E, Esin Korkmaz K, Dogramaci AC. Induction of allergic contact dermatitis and pervasive face edema due to Brazilian keratin treatment. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021;20(3):781-783. doi:10.1111/jocd.13605
Sanchez-Duenas LE, Ruiz-Dueñas A, Guevara-Gutiérrez E, Tlacuilo-Parra A. Psoriasiform skin reaction due to Brazilian keratin treatment: A clinical-dermatoscopic study of 43 patients. Int J Trichology. 2022;14(3):103-108. doi:10.4103/ijt.ijt_62_21
Tinoco, A., Gonçalves, J., Silva, C., Loureiro, A., Gomes, A. C., Cavaco-Paulo, A., & Ribeiro, A. (2018). Keratin-based particles for protection and restoration of hair properties. International journal of cosmetic science, 40(4), 408–419. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12483
Weathersby, C., & McMichael, A. (2013). Brazilian keratin hair treatment: a review. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 12(2), 144–148. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12030
Keratin treatments have gained popularity as a hair smoothing and straightening method. These treatments involve the application of a keratin-infused formula to the hair, followed by heat sealing to create a sleek and manageable appearance. While keratin treatments offer several benefits, it is essential to consider the potential drawbacks.
Keratin treatments are highly effective in transforming frizzy, unruly hair into smooth, sleek locks. The keratin-infused formula coats the hair shaft, reducing frizz, and providing a straightening effect. This can significantly improve the manageability of the hair, making it easier to style and reducing the need for extensive heat styling. One of the key benefits of keratin treatments is their ability to combat frizz, even in humid conditions. The keratin coating creates a protective barrier that helps to repel moisture, minimizing the effects of humidity on the hair. This can be particularly advantageous for individuals living in humid climates or those with naturally frizzy hair. With smoother, more manageable hair, individuals who undergo keratin treatments often experience reduced styling time. The hair becomes easier to brush, detangle, and style, requiring less effort and heat styling. This can contribute to less damage and breakage over time. For individuals seeking temporary hair straightening without the commitment of permanent chemical treatments, keratin treatments offer a suitable option. The effects of a keratin treatment typically last for a few months, gradually fading as new hair grows in. This allows individuals to enjoy straighter hair temporarily without permanently altering their natural texture.
One of the primary concerns associated with keratin treatments is the potential presence of formaldehyde or formaldehyde-releasing ingredients in some products. Formaldehyde is a known irritant and can cause respiratory issues, eye irritation, and allergic reactions. It is important to choose formaldehyde-free products and ensure proper ventilation during the treatment process. Keratin treatments can be relatively expensive, especially when performed by professionals in salons. Additionally, the treatment process can be time-consuming, often requiring several hours to complete. Individuals considering keratin treatments should be prepared for the associated financial investment and time commitment. Keratin treatments involve the use of chemicals to alter the hair's structure. While the keratin-infused formula helps to smooth and strengthen the hair, the process can still result in some level of hair damage. The heat sealing process, combined with the chemical treatment, may lead to dryness, brittleness, or breakage, especially if the treatment is performed excessively or by inexperienced individuals. Following a keratin treatment, individuals may experience limitations on hairstyling options. The treatment aims to create straighter, smoother hair, which means that individuals with naturally curly or wavy hair may have reduced curl retention or difficulty achieving their desired texture. This lack of versatility in hairstyling can be a downside for those who prefer to experiment with different looks.
Keratin treatments offer several benefits, including hair smoothing, frizz control, and reduced styling time. They provide temporary straightening effects without permanently altering the hair's natural texture. However, it is important to consider the potential drawbacks, such as formaldehyde exposure, cost, time commitment, hair damage, and limitations on hairstyling options. Before undergoing a keratin treatment, individuals should thoroughly research and choose a reputable salon or professional who uses formaldehyde-free products and follows proper safety protocols. It is also essential to discuss any concerns or questions with a haircare professional to ensure the treatment aligns with personal preferences and hair health goals. With proper consideration and informed decision-making, individuals can determine whether keratin treatments are the right choice for their hair needs.
Resources
“Evaluation of Safety and Efficacy of Keratin Hair Therapy” https://classic.clinicaltrials.gov/ct2/show/NCT04489576.